KNIT CLASS
The gauge
If you want to get a piece of work that suits you and not waste your time , then take out your best all-risk insurance by making a sample!
Because even if you knit the same yarn as the pattern, the tension you apply to the yarn is yours alone.
This Knit Class explains how to do it, what conclusions to draw and what measures to apply.
What is a gauge and how do I make one?
Making a sample means knitting a square at least 10 cm wide by 10 cm high, respecting the major specifications of the pattern such as: the knitting direction (back and forth/circular) and the stitch (jersey, jacquard, lace, etc.).
Then, it will be essential to block it (especially if you are using elastic threads like animal fibers or if the pattern has a stitch that needs to be deployed like lace) by letting it dry completely on a flat surface.
Finally, you will need to compare it to the pattern . If it matches, you will have validated the sample and can start knitting with the certainty of ultimately obtaining a piece of work with the correct dimensions.
Beyond this primary objective, the sample will also make it possible to verify that:
-
the chosen thread will provide the ideal fabric for the project (fluidity, hold, transparency, etc.)
-
you will like the combination of colors (in the case of a multi-colored knit: jacquard, stripes, etc.).
-
your method of caring for the piece will not harm the fibers (color bleeding, stretching or shrinking of the piece due to blocking, machine washing resistance, etc.).
In general, the way in which the sample should be made will be indicated in the pattern.
Here is an example:
Tip: To make it easier to count the number of stitches and rows in a 10cm x 10cm square, it is strongly recommended that you cast on at least 6 more stitches than the pattern swatch indicates and knit a few more rows.
Note that 2 to 3 more stitches will be enough when knitting very thick yarns (worsted, aran).
Making a sample means knitting a square at least 10 cm wide by 10 cm high, respecting the major specifications of the pattern such as: the knitting direction (back and forth/circular) and the stitch (jersey, jacquard, lace, etc.).
Then, it will be essential to block it (especially if you are using elastic threads like animal fibers or if the pattern has a stitch that needs to be deployed like lace) by letting it dry completely on a flat surface.
Finally, you will need to compare it to the pattern . If it matches, you will have validated the sample and can start knitting with the certainty of ultimately obtaining a piece of work with the correct dimensions.
Beyond this primary objective, the sample will also make it possible to verify that:
-
the chosen thread will provide the ideal fabric for the project (fluidity, hold, transparency, etc.)
-
you will like the combination of colors (in the case of a multi-colored knit: jacquard, stripes, etc.).
-
your method of caring for the piece will not harm the fibers (color bleeding, stretching or shrinking of the piece due to blocking, machine washing resistance, etc.).
In general, the way in which the sample should be made will be indicated in the pattern.
Here is an example:
Making a sample means knitting a square at least 10 cm wide by 10 cm high, respecting the major specifications of the pattern such as: the knitting direction (back and forth/circular) and the stitch (jersey, jacquard, lace, etc.).
Then, it will be essential to block it (especially if you are using elastic threads like animal fibers or if the pattern has a stitch that needs to be deployed like lace) by letting it dry completely on a flat surface.
Finally, you will need to compare it to the pattern . If it matches, you will have validated the sample and can start knitting with the certainty of ultimately obtaining a piece of work with the correct dimensions.
Beyond this primary objective, the sample will also make it possible to verify that:
-
the chosen thread will provide the ideal fabric for the project (fluidity, hold, transparency, etc.)
-
you will like the combination of colors (in the case of a multi-colored knit: jacquard, stripes, etc.).
-
your method of caring for the piece will not harm the fibers (color bleeding, stretching or shrinking of the piece due to blocking, machine washing resistance, etc.).
In general, the way in which the sample should be made will be indicated in the pattern.
Here is an example:
VOS QUESTIONS
Si je tricote un design avec la laine prévue par le patron, l'échantillon reste t'il indispensable ?
Oui, toujours ! Car la tension que vous exercez sur le fil n'appartient qu'à vous. Prenons, deux tricoteuses qui tricoteraient le même fil avec le même numéro d'aiguilles .... Il est fort à parier que le résultat diffèrera.
Puis-je me fier aux indications d'échantillon inscrites sur la pelote/l'écheveau ?
Si vous ne connaissez pas du tout cette laine, c'est toujours interessant d'avoir cette notion mais elles ne doit en aucun cas vous éviter la réalisation de l'échantillon... au risque d'avoir une mauvaise surprise à la fin de votre ouvrage !
Votre tension, vous est propre ! En vous familiarisant avec une nouvelle laine, vous en observerez en plus son aspect. Prenez cela comme une mise en bouche ;-)
J'ai fais un échantillon dans les règles de l'art avant d'entamer mon ouvrage.
Il était parfait et pourtant mon pull, une fois bloqué, est plus grand que prévu.
En comptant le nombre de mailles sur mon ouvrage terminé, le nombre de mailles et/ou de rangs est différent de celui de l'échantillon... c'est désespérant !
Comment est-ce possible ?
Certaines fibres (comme le mérinos superwash ou l'alpaga) ont une tendance à la mollesse. Ajouter à cela quelques facteurs aggravants comme :
1. une pièce importante/lourde,
2. une construction sans structure (comme un pull à empiècement de type yoke) ...
Et il est tout à fait explicable que le maillage de votre ouvrage soit différent de celui de votre échantillon.
Je vous conseille de bien noter les expériences vécues (composition du fil / type de construction...) et si les mêmes conditions sont réunies, de tricoter un peu moins long que prévues le corps et les manches la prochaine fois.
Making a sample means knitting a square at least 10 cm wide by 10 cm high, respecting the major specifications of the pattern such as: the knitting direction (back and forth/circular) and the stitch (jersey, jacquard, lace, etc.).
Then, it will be essential to block it (especially if you are using elastic threads like animal fibers or if the pattern has a stitch that needs to be deployed like lace) by letting it dry completely on a flat surface.
Finally, you will need to compare it to the pattern . If it matches, you will have validated the sample and can start knitting with the certainty of ultimately obtaining a piece of work with the correct dimensions.
Beyond this primary objective, the sample will also make it possible to verify that:
-
the chosen thread will provide the ideal fabric for the project (fluidity, hold, transparency, etc.)
-
you will like the combination of colors (in the case of a multi-colored knit: jacquard, stripes, etc.).
-
your method of caring for the piece will not harm the fibers (color bleeding, stretching or shrinking of the piece due to blocking, machine washing resistance, etc.).
In general, the way in which the sample should be made will be indicated in the pattern.
Here is an example:
Making a sample means knitting a square at least 10 cm wide by 10 cm high, respecting the major specifications of the pattern such as: the knitting direction (back and forth/circular) and the stitch (jersey, jacquard, lace, etc.).
Then, it will be essential to block it (especially if you are using elastic threads like animal fibers or if the pattern has a stitch that needs to be deployed like lace) by letting it dry completely on a flat surface.
Finally, you will need to compare it to the pattern . If it matches, you will have validated the sample and can start knitting with the certainty of ultimately obtaining a piece of work with the correct dimensions.
Beyond this primary objective, the sample will also make it possible to verify that:
-
the chosen thread will provide the ideal fabric for the project (fluidity, hold, transparency, etc.)
-
you will like the combination of colors (in the case of a multi-colored knit: jacquard, stripes, etc.).
-
your method of caring for the piece will not harm the fibers (color bleeding, stretching or shrinking of the piece due to blocking, machine washing resistance, etc.).
In general, the way in which the sample should be made will be indicated in the pattern.
Here is an example:
The gauge does not match
while you used the same type of wire
than that indicated in the pattern
By measuring 10 cm on the fabric, you count
more stitches than the pattern sample.
This indicates that your mesh is too tight. To compensate, increase your needle size until you achieve the perfect gauge.
By measuring 10 cm on the fabric, you count
fewer stitches than the pattern sample.
This indicates that your mesh is too loose. To compensate, decrease your needle size until you achieve the perfect gauge.
The sample does not match
you used a completely different thread than the one in the pattern
You've fallen in love with a yarn and would like to pair it with a pattern. A swatch is a good way to see if the yarn you're hoping for is suitable for a project. Make your swatch and observe...
-
You're getting a fabric that's too dense / the stitches are too tightly packed. The piece may be too tight/stiff. The solution > increase the needle size until you get a mesh that matches the pattern.
-
You end up with a fabric that's too airy / the stitches are spaced out. The piece may be too soft/loose. The solution > decrease the needle size until you get a mesh that matches the pattern.
Now that the fabric obtained is consistent with that of the pattern, follow the explanations in the chapter " knitting another size to compensate for an unvalidated sample " below.
Note: Some patterns require very dense or even ungauged fabric. If you like the pattern/thread combination suggested by the pattern, it is recommended that you trust it and choose the same type of thread and obtain the requested gauge.
Making a sample means knitting a square at least 10 cm wide by 10 cm high, respecting the major specifications of the pattern such as: the knitting direction (back and forth/circular) and the stitch (jersey, jacquard, lace, etc.).
Then, it will be essential to block it (especially if you are using elastic threads like animal fibers or if the pattern has a stitch that needs to be deployed like lace) by letting it dry completely on a flat surface.
Finally, you will need to compare it to the pattern . If it matches, you will have validated the sample and can start knitting with the certainty of ultimately obtaining a piece of work with the correct dimensions.
Beyond this primary objective, the sample will also make it possible to verify that:
-
the chosen thread will provide the ideal fabric for the project (fluidity, hold, transparency, etc.)
-
you will like the combination of colors (in the case of a multi-colored knit: jacquard, stripes, etc.).
-
your method of caring for the piece will not harm the fibers (color bleeding, stretching or shrinking of the piece due to blocking, machine washing resistance, etc.).
In general, the way in which the sample should be made will be indicated in the pattern.
Here is an example:
To get a knit in your size when the gauge isn't right, but you're happy with the fabric in the sample, simply knit a size other than yours. Here are the steps to follow:
-
Note the pattern sample for 10 cm: 23 stitches (for the example)
-
Note the circumference in cm of the knitting at the bust: 90 cm (for the example)
Generally, the circumference of the knit is indicated in the technical diagram and/or the measurement table. If you do not have this data, you can do this calculation: multiply the number of stitches in the bust circumference by 10*, then divide the result by the number of stitches in the sample.
That is: (10 x 207) / 23 = 90 .
* For example, the total number of stitches at the bust for size 90 is 207 stitches.
-
Note the number of stitches per 10 cm obtained on your sample: 21 stitches (for the example)
When comparing your gauge to the pattern gauge, you'll notice that yours contains fewer stitches. This means that if you followed the size instructions with the gauge you obtained, your knitting will be too big! To avoid this, you'll need to knit a smaller size.
-
To find out what size to knit, calculate the number of stitches you should have around your bust, taking into account your gauge. Do this calculation: number of stitches in your gauge, multiplied by the circumference in cm of the knitting at the bust, then divide the result by 10.
That is: (21 x 90) / 10 = 189 stitches.
Conclusion: now that you know the number of stitches (187) that you should have for your bust measurement, choose the size in the pattern that has the number of stitches closest to this value.
Note: In this application, we assume that your gauge in number of rows matches that of the pattern. In case this is not the case, keep in mind that the number of rows can also be important depending on the type of construction (raglan, contiguous, etc.)